The night before we left Racine, Wisconsin for Chicago we had docktails with some other Loopers. Turns out Kim, on Sand Dollar a 43’ Mainship, gets up and runs at dawn. So we got this picture of us leaving Racine harbour – there were already lots of people out fishing for salmon on the break wall:

Our trip to Chicago was pretty good – first couple hours were perfectly smooth, next couple were reasonable with 1 – 2 foot waves, and then the final 2 hours were 3 – 4′ almost directly on the bow so lots of up and down. What was equally annoying about those final couple hours was the City was RIGHT there …. seemed we made no progress at all with the Chicago skyline within reach for 2 hours!

There is an outer break wall that people said watch out for as it’s really close to the water line. It was…. so it provided little or no protection for the harbour. There was a second inner breakwall for marinas, including the one we stayed at – DuSable. They put us in a 70’ slip, we could have fit in sideways! Great location, right downtown with the river beside us, the Chicago Riverwalk right there as we step off the pier, Magnificent Mile 15 minutes away, and the Navy Pier 10 minutes away.

First night we took the Architectural boat tour at dusk – led by a volunteer from the Architectural Society so she knew her stuff. Tour was terrific, lots of history about the buildings – we figured this would make our own trip down the river more meaningful if we knew what we were passing. Great to do it at dusk as the city lit up as the tour progressed:

Next day more sightseeing and another highlight! Catching up with Wayne’s cousin Jennifer and her husband Anthony. They arrived in time for a drink on the boat before dinner bearing traditional boating / Chicago gifts. The champagne was NOT wasted against the hull of our boat…. and the Chicago mix popcorn lasted maybe a day.

We had a dinner reservation at Siena Tavern (Italian Chef Fabio Viviani of tv fame on Top Chef reality cooking show co-owns it), but missed the reservation as Wayne and Jennifer prioritized cocktails over food! So we set out for the alternative and the walk there took us by the Siena Tavern. Wayne and Jennifer walked in on the slim chance we could get a table, and it worked! Dinner was delicious, lived up to the reputation for wonderful salads, pasta, wine and dessert!

But wait, we’re not done yet! Off for a nightcap at the Signature Room on the 95th of the John Hancock building, for one of the best views of the city at night!

And then the quality of the picture taking deteriorated slightly for our walk back to the boat but I did promise to include this Trump tower photo for Jennifer’s sister Julie:

Anyway, wonderful visit with Jennifer and Anthony; especially appreciate their planning for a night on the town that we would otherwise have missed.

Next day Wayne snoozed a fair bit! but more touring around and then a wonderful Labour Day fireworks display Sunday night right at the end of the pier by the lock. A bit of boat prep – had to take down our mast so we could clear the bridges.

We got up early for an 0700 departure for our own river cruise – a bit choppy getting to the lock, and we are locking through with 2 other boaters, both Loopers, both boats called Breakaway, we assumed they were related but nope, just an odd coincidence. First of our river locks, and learn to wear gloves as this lock was simple – hang onto their (slimy) line.

River cruise – fabulous! LOVED Chicago!

Take a trip to Chicago sometime everyone! Illinois River here we come….XO B&W

We had a great crossing of Lake Michigan from Manistee, Michigan to Manitowoc, Wisconsin. Left at 0900 and arrived at 1600, trip OD 58.5 nm in case anyone curious about how wide the lake is at that point. Lake was relatively calm on August 19th. Pretty much the last date we can say that about it!

Manitowoc is the home of an excellent museum – the Manitowoc Maritime Museum that includes a decommissioned submarine USS Cobia that was active in WWII. The whole place was interactive, hands on, and the tour of the sub was conducted by a vet (who was cook in a submarine post WWII, so he had some good stories).

Both of us loved that tour. However, no time to linger, we finished our tour and left by noon driven by a weather window, meeting the Badger Ferry (that crosses Lake Michigan daily) at the harbour entrance as we left.

Heading to south to Sheboygan, Wisconsin for one night at the Harbour City Marina. This is our first fuelling that we are expected to do ourselves although we don’t know it. We wait for the dock assistant to assist, no action…. watched another boat come in behind us and start to fuel so then we ask… are we supposed to do it? Yes… not sure if staffing issue, or liability issue? Anyway, now we know. Arrived too late in the day for more touring of Sheboygan. And if we thought we were in the last slip at Manitowoc, well it had nothing on Sheboygan. We had the last slip on pier Z, so far from civilization despite cruising by MANY empty slips along the way to Z Dock. Had a quick walk around town early the next morning but nothing was open yet & again headed out at 0900 for next stop, Port Washington, Wisconsin.

Port Washington is a lovely town, lots of restaurants, nice stores but no where to get the practical, grocery stuff within walking distance. Did get some a few things at a butcher downtown but pretty much limited to meat, cheese. We caught up with Loopers we had met at The Chute and at Parry Sound in Ontario – Allie and Jim Cantonis on Meraki – they had rented a car and gave me a ride to a Piggly Wiggly grocery store (good news they sell more than pork products). Ended up there for 2 nights as a strong east wind had built up the waves and not good for us to get out of the harbour.

Next stop Milwaukee! Decent cruising with a northeast wind pushing our port stern so Wayne steered the whole way – 1/3rd each: surfing, wallowing and cruising. A good ride Lake Michigan style.

Glad to tie up for a couple of days that turned into four days – would like to say it’s because we had so much to do in Milwaukee but it had more to do with …. you got it …. lake conditions. We did meet another couple looping, Pam & John Short M/V Short Vacation, a 45′ DeFever, also watching for a good weather window to head south.

Milwaukee has a great waterfront as long as you like to walk. So covered what we wanted to – art museum, brewery tour – and ‘cruised’ downtown river in our dinghy – great way to see downtown. Still industrial looking with old factories turning into interesting condos etc.

Caught a familiar sight though along our dinghy ride on the river downtown Milwaukee:

Anyway, with a wind switching back to the west we left Milwaukee August 26th for a remarkably smooth run down to Racine, Wisconsin on the 27th. We tagged behind Pam & John Short on Short Vacation – they are on their 4th year of looping, clearly taking their time! Nice to travel with them, about the same speed. Here for 2 days as there was a small craft advisory today so no one moving. The local Harbour Hosts had completed the Loop a couple of years ago… very friendly and accommodating – they took us for a hardware (propane refill) and grocery store run and then did the same for other Loopers at the marina. Turns out it’s their anniversary on August 28th, so we thanked them & congratulated them with a docktails along with the Shorts, and another Looper couple, Bill and Kim on a 40′ Mainship that we had met for the first time in Port Washington.

But early tomorrow is another window for good conditions on the west side of Lake Michigan so we’re going to make a break for Chicago tomorrow. Sincerely hoping Chicago’s nickname, the Windy City, was someone’s idea of a joke!

Wayne & I are sorry to miss THE wedding event of the year this Saturday. Corey and Kristen, have a wonderful day! And we’ll look forward to some pictures and stories of well behaved relatives!

XO, B&W

PS So the Lake Michigan lessons are: 1) prevailing westerly winds do not exist, 2) when watching all four weather apps, listening to local radio, and marine forecasts broadcast by NOAA and they all say wave heights are ‘x’ you then need to adjust that number to ((x + 1)*0.35), 3) The Loopers who call this Lake Washing Machine are not exaggerating, and 4) don’t take to heart all those local museum exhibits that list all the ship wreaks.

We had a great run down the St. Mary’s River from the Soo, USA to our next stop on Detour Island. Uneventful except for 2 things – we crossed the wake of a freighter (not by choice) and what looked like nice, easy rollers turned into The Flyer (remember the first ride you had on that roller coaster – did not seem so bad but then you really wanted off?), and we somehow timed our arrival at the marina for the one and only 5 minute flash storm. Dock master, crew got completely soaked, captain stayed reasonably dry. We arrived around 1300, and the storm was over quickly so we had time to walk the mile or so uptown, buy a few groceries at the local store, and Wayne found a place to buy the Michigan State fishing license.

We met a bunch of other Loopers at the DeTour Village Marina and had docktails with them, comparing notes on where & when everyone was heading south into Lake Michigan. We ended up travelling with a couple of them (Canadians Dorthea & Brian on Sequel, and the nice couple out of Lake Superior M/V Kayak that we met at the Soo, US) to a great anchorage in Government Bay – had the place to ourselves!

Next day we all headed for St. Ignace, Michigan – we stayed 2 days so we could do the touristy thing at Mackinaw Island (unable to pre-book a slip at the marina on the island – apparently you need to book far in advance but we were not that confident in our schedule – and failing that, could have checked day of arrival to see if anything available). St. Ignace was actually a really nice spot, great marina, nice town with a small boardwalk along the water linking marina to downtown and to where the ferries cross to Mackinac dock. Fairly touristy itself, St. Ignace had museums and shops to wander through but it was a Sunday so pretty quiet.

Really enjoyed the day on the island with the horse drawn carriage ride, a drink in the bar at the top of the Grand Hotel, touring the fort and of course sampling fudge.

We left St Ignace early – had advice that conditions in the Straits of Mackinaw can be very different than when you start down Lake Michigan. All good though with one tiny, tiny annoyance – a butterfly actually sped past us. Loved the Mackinaw Bridge – very impressive from underneath!

Michigan has done a great job of creating safe harbours all along the shoreline of Lake Michigan – terrific small towns and well run marinas that you can book online. Fewer opportunities to anchor though.

Kind of a long day to our first stop on the east side of Lake Michigan to Charlevoix, Michigan. As we came under the bridge and entered the small lake we heard our names called – it was another Canadian boat – La Vagabond with Dave and Dominique – anchored right there. Nice to have a welcoming committee!

Charlevoix is charming – marina is in the perfect park setting with the bandstand, and the main street restaurants, shopping all right there…. and it’s known for the ‘mushroom houses’ designed and built by Earl Young – made out of local stone from 1919 thru to the seventies. We could easily walk to a few of them – one for sale by Berkshire Hathaway real estate if anyone interested!

We enjoyed a free concert from our upper helm one night over a coffee; also watched James Bond boat pull up to the gas dock partially submerged…. no problem, boat simply hovered in place while feeling. Departing Charlevoix, we timed it to hourly bridge lift, and got in line – good travel day, we are not the only ones to head out to Lake Michigan.

Left Charlevoix heading south down the east side of the Lake – the sandy side. Wanted to stop at Leland – another recommendation but no room so headed further south to Frankfort – another great stop. Amazing dunes at the Sleeping Bear Dunes State Park, VERY calm, cold (46 degrees F) water on Lake Michigan along the way and a terrific sunset that evening in Frankfort on a public beach, pier within walking distance of a fun downtown and the marina.

Wayne ‘invested’ in a Michigan fishing license he bought at DeTour Island – putting food on the table does require investment – it’s not just fun and games! And Frankfort was equipped with a public fish cleaning station – extremely clean and staffed where they clean and cut fish to your specifications – turns out it is salmon fishing though. Small dinghy and walleye equipment just don’t cut it!

We wanted to cross the lake and head to the west side of the lake – Frankfort on the Michigan, east side to the Wisconsin, west side of Lake Michigan is the narrow part of the lake / shortest places to cross. But conditions not favourable to cross so we headed south one more stop along the way to Manistee, MI.

A nice stop, our sailboat neighbours also doing the Loop. Took in a movie at the local theatre and waited an extra day to cross the lake on Aug 19th – heading for Manitowoc, Wisconsin.

Take care everyone! B&W

July 31st – loaded down with shiny new anchor chain, a golf range finder and new floating line we were ready to head across to the north shore of the North Channel – Shoepack Bay – with all the anchoring toys anyone could want or need. The range finder and the floating line are very handy when tying to a rock on shore as well as using the anchor. The mathematical modelling that used to go on to figure out where to drop anchor and end up the right distance from shore was more of a guess and less of a statistically accurate model. Range finder the perfect solution for the near and farsighted pair of us!

July 31st and August 1st were our last days with our favourite boaters before we all headed off in 4 different directions. Made the most of it with a special hamburger recipe for smashed burgers.

Next day, same perfect rock, we had a last shore fish fry potluck with our fellow boaters – Wayne channelling big fish thoughts with his new sun shirt (thanks Mom!), and Clive taking seriously the responsibility for a baggie full of fish. I was lucky enough to share a birthday with Bob D’Alcorn and so Jan had baked a peach upside down cake!! Why is food so much better outdoors?

Goodbye to Heart Tug, Joint Venture, Wings (and Tug’n who had left a couple days earlier) – we’ll miss the camaraderie, the advice, the laughs and look forward to boating with you next year!

Wayne and I planned to anchor out a few more days and cross the border at the Soo mid August but started thinking about wanting time to see as much of Lake Michigan as possible and bank a few bad weather days so we started heading towards the Soo.  Conditions on the north shore of the North Channel were great so we put in a 54 nm day from Shoepack anchorage to Thessalon (we did see some other anchorages we’d like to explore another year!).  Asleep at the wheel is really much more comfortable in a boat than in a car…. enroute to Thessalon a nap was required.

Thessalon was a very quiet stop for us – the entire town was at a baseball tournament that is held every Civic Holiday long weekend in August.  The kid managing the dock helped us into our slip and then said we’d settle up later as he had to make it to his baseball game!  

One more night out before the Soo – a nice anchorage at Anderson Creek, Killaly Point.  We had the good fortune to borrow paper charts from Wings (Bob & Jan D’Alcorn) for heading up to the Soo and again back down the Saint Mary’s River for when we leave the Soo heading south.  We knew we could return the charts when we stayed at their marina in Charlevoix, MI.  Left the Anderson Creek anchorage around 0830 on August 5th and at 1100 – 1200 we ran into a very scary thunderstorm.  Sheets of water, lightening & thunder as we head up unfamiliar water so nice to have paper charts in case our technology gets zapped.  Fortunately not required but it was a good lesson to check weather before any departure.

On to the Roberta Bondar Marina in the Soo, Canada; great location downtown and they were upgrading the docks so no hydro but all other services were available. Yeah solar panels! When we pulled into our slip we were right in front of our sister ship Amazing Grace. Which was, well, amazing as they are also doing the loop. It’s actually a 40′ red Mainship as compared to our 34′ but careful photographic perspective demonstrates that we have the larger boat – more fake news! We were happy to share this picture with them.

We were spoiled with an excellent pizza, and beer, delivery from Wayne’s niece Ainsley, her husband Joe and his sailor brother Scott at the marina (fortunately there was meat on the pizza – they had no idea we had been subsisting on root vegetables and citrus fruits because I did not want to throw any food away before crossing the border!). We also happily confirmed we are not cut out for sailing on Lake Superior and donated our old, used chain and rode to tie down a 3-time sailboat escapee – good luck to Scott.

Next day, August 7th we have the shortest trip of the Loop, 0.6 nm crossing the Mary’s River from the Soo, Canada to the Soo, Michigan to pick up our USA cruising permit and clear customs. Very easy and quick. Toured the Valley Camp steamship museum right beside the marina – it’s a decommissioned ship that you can wander all over – really well done if anyone finds themselves in the Soo, Michigan.

We had dinner out, and chatted with another Looper couple, M/V Kayak also at the George Kemp Marina – nice to know some folks that we may be boating with or see along the trip.  They have plans to do Lake Michigan entirely on the Wisconsin side of the lake because they have relatives they are visiting.  We’ll have to save that side for another year….

The George Kemp Marina is also a great place to watch the Great Lake freighters go by…

Here’s to watching those freighters from a safe distance and not meeting too many on the water (by the way, 5 sharp blasts of their horn means get out of their way – fast).

XOXO, W&B

A whopping 7ish nautical miles from Little Current to the best sunset EVER at anchor in Bell Cove, north shore of Great La Cloche Island:

Next day on to Gibson Cove on Fox Island and dinghy rides to and around North and South Benjamin Islands. Busiest we’d seen yet for anchorages – understandably because its stunningly beautiful.

Water high so both good (boats tucked in where typically can’t go) and bad (those rocks that were visible last year are lurking just below the surface). Caught up with a boat we had met in the Trent Severn – they were tucked right between rocks blending in so well you could have missed them….

Had to check out the notorious (in a very good way) anchorage at Hotham Island. Cocktail hour, with cottage owners Elaine & Norm who were boaters in the past, is a daily event. Elaine kayaks to all the boats in the bay inviting them to their dock. Wondered if she ever got tired of hosting boaters anchored in the bay and answer was no… it’s a short season, so really just a few weeks in July & August, and more importantly, they are going to have a cocktail no matter what, so why drink alone!? Met all kinds of boaters – including other Loopers and boaters out of Lake Michigan with tips on travelling the lake.

And then on to Gore Bay – a great little town with a summer festival Harbour Days on the 4th weekend in July. It was not just about food but really have to mention the all-you-can eat pancake breakfast, and all-you-can eat fish fry. Fortunately the butter tarts we bought were not all-you-can eat. Not to mention great pizza at a local restaurant. Met more Loopers all doing the trip in their own way, at their own speed.

We stayed a couple extra days at Gore Bay as we upgraded our anchor rode to 100% chain for our trip south. Apparently the safe thing to do. And tomorrow we’re off early to catch up with Heart Tug, Wings and Joint Venture (yes, that M/V name is for real and no, they did not clean up on pot stocks – too bad!).

XO W&B

3 fish lunches at Herbert’s in Killarney (not all on the same day!) and we were ready to move to Covered Portage Cove – a beautiful anchorage just west of Killarney, part of the La Cloche Range. The entrance to Covered Portage anchorage takes us right by a cliff that, briefly, shows the profile of ‘the Chief’:

There are great hiking trails with spectacular views, including a tiny Red Dog:

We stayed a couple of nights and then carried on up the Landsdowne Channel (our first real encounter of fog, we had Randy in the lead watching radar and sounding his fog horn, and tightened up the distance between boats so we could keep everyone in sight) and into Fraser Bay. Another perfect anchorage in a small horseshoe shaped bay, called Horseshoe Bay! Water so clear we could see where someone had carved in the ‘seabed’ a friendly “Life is Good” – could not agree with them more!

Fish fry on the rocks, Wayne seeking cell service on shore, Wayne & Audrey securing a stern line …. could not be better. We have been fortunate to travel with some North Channel experts and they have been terrific cruise directors, showing us very special spots.

Next stop – McGregor Bay, East & West Channel for another anchorage tucked away from wind. We do not have charts so instructed to follow closely the zig zags of the boat we were following. Does that not inspire confidence or what! Maybe we should invest in some charts for McGregor!

Packed a lunch and explored the area by dinghy. Lunch spot – it was at the McGregor parish hall / community church with an amazing cemetery for local cottagers who have chosen to have their cremated remains buried in cairns – all on top of the good ‘ole Canadian Shield.

Red Dog left the gang at the East Channel, McGregor Bay & headed west for Little Current, ON to get caught up on some admin stuff- including getting our cruising permit documents off to a very knowledgeable Customs & Border Services Officer in Sault Saint Marie, US, and of course signing up for the AGLCA (loopers association) fall rendezvous in October at a marina in northern Alabama. So we do have one firm date to make on this trip!

First morning in Little Current- we attended in person the daily radio broadcast for boaters in Northern Georgian Bay and the North Channel, finding out where other boaters are, relaying messages between boats etc. 106 boaters called in that day – I know as I was conscripted to write down all vessel names and locations. Next day, just texted in our location…. hot, hot day so glad to have hydro and a bit of AC relief. Yup, we’re roughing it.

Take care everyone, XO

So we are taking trawler speed to heart! I thought about including mileage to mark our progress but really, who needs stats to confirm our snail’s pace? So we moved just north of Parry Sound and anchored for a couple of nights in Sawdust Bay just 5 nm north of Parry Sound. Had a great day on July 1st moving to another beautiful anchorage in Regatta Bay on Franklin Island (oh, by the way the herb garden is thriving!)

Encountered some fog heading up to Britt but Georgian Bay was kind to us and it lifted quickly and water was calm into Britt. (Hi Britt and Brad, happy condo painting! By the way I have a new appreciation of the colour purple as that indicates perfect, no wind conditions on a weather app we watch).

From Britt over to The Bustards (yes, a u not an a) for another couple nights anchored. Excitement on the picnic shore lunch with other boaters. If you ever wondered whether you’d pick up on a distinctive rattle, the answer is yes. Perhaps not quite so scary as John Wayne movies, so maybe we just disturbed a baby rattle snake. Back in the dinghy for another spot.

We’d heard a lot about The Bad River (part of the French River park) so tried that out for a couple of nights. Fun fishing and running some rapids in dinghies (until we hit submerged rocks, dent the prop – that sort of sucks the fun out of for one of us – just guess who).

So with our Bad River Badge of Honour chips out of the dinghy prop, and fish in the freezer, we headed over to Thomas Bay just south of Killarney. Such a beautiful spot with these high cliffs of pink / red granite behind us, looking out to the top end of Georgian Bay.

Quick run into Killarney for fish and chips lunch at Herbert’s and stickie buns from the Sportsman Inn / marina are two highlights. And now a day of swimming and relaxing…. take care everyone!

New burgee ready to fly as we get set to leave our home marina, Lagoon City, on Lake Simcoe for our adventure on the Loop, also known as the Great Circle Route, or more locally known as Wayne’s really big fishing trip!

Day 1 and we depart at 0900 with Audrey & Randy M/V Heart Tug and get to our planned stop at The Chute, staying at the Parks Canada docks.

We stay over the weekend – always lots of fishing boat action to watch as well as vessels going over the marine railway, unique to the Trent Severn Waterway. Among the boats heading over were two American boats, Loopers, with one wrapping up their trip in Lake Michigan (Wolfe’s M/V Blue Heron, that showed up on AIS as Blue Hero!) and the other (Cantonis’s M/V Meraki) going to be heading south back to their home port of Fort Lauderdale, FLA. Nice to see some fellow loopers along the way, I’m sure we’ll see them again….

A couple of nights at a favourite anchor, Echo Bay, where we celebrate Randy’s birthday by making him barbecue our steaks (well, he does have the perfect technique!) and sharing his birthday butter tarts!

And then on to Parry Sound. We hit up our favourite spots (stopped at Point Pleasant Marina for a spare shower sump pump), breakfast at Orr’s, the Bearly Used Book Store, and pick up some fresh fruit & veg at the Market. We’ve been out for a week, and just at Parry Sound – a leisurely pace for sure – might have to pick it up a notch or we’ll need a couple of years to finish the Loop! Plan is to enjoy Georgian Bay and the North Channel for the next few weeks.

Quick shout out to brother-in-law Rob, hope hip is doing well & Pennie taking good care of you. Also happy retirement Suzanne, wish we were with you to celebrate!

Well our adventure begins way back in 2006 when Wayne & I visit the Toronto International Boat Show to see a trawler: a single Yanmar engine 34′ Mainship. We loved the boat & Wayne said as we left the show “that’s our boat – someone is going to buy it for us” (at full price, outfit it, and then sell it to us for much less when we’re ready). So some dreams do come true because ~ 10 years later a broker contacted Wayne and told him there was a 34′ Mainship for sale! Located south of Kingston, at Len’s Cove Marina on Big Rideau Lake, Portland, Ontario. Too bad it was November, all shrink wrapped for the winter…

We did our best to check it out in the cold and have someone do a survey for us. There were many selling features – not the least of which was a healthy dose of “superstitious meant-to-be” for 3 reasons:

• the name of the boat was Red Dog, just like our red border collie Fazer
• the broker’s name was Fraser Campbell (Wayne’s mom’s maiden name is Fraser and Barb’s mom’s maiden name is Campbell)
• it was the same red hull that was on the cover of the 2006 brochure we had saved from the long ago boat show & the one we said “it’s ours!”

How could we NOT buy it?

Wayne became a member of the AGLCA (America’s Great Loop Cruiser’s Association), an organization that supports boaters doing ‘the Loop’ in all ways imaginable from information on the route, biannual rendezvous to get boaters together, member information, a forum for members to share information, ideas, contacts, etc. And started reading, and reading, and reading….

The actual Great Loop route is an all-water trip around the eastern part of North America, essentially one massive island and we were going to boat around it! Living aboard Red Dog and leaving our home port of Lagoon City on Lake Simcoe, Ontario, on June 21, 2019 – the first day of summer. Our trip starts in the Trent / Severn Waterway system in Ontario and takes us:

Lots of planning & provisioning in advance: admin stuff like OHIP extended absence, extra health insurance, boat insurance coverage, NEXUS cards, to boat improvements (new top in 2017, new dinghy in 2018, convection microwave, Engel freezer, solar panels and AIS in 2019), spare parts inventory, food and paper products to be stashed everywhere, and more cleaning cloths than either of us have ever used in our entire lives.

All we needed was Wayne to retire…. checked that box (we thought) for April 7, 2019 on his 60th birthday. The good news – Wayne managed to take much of the winter 2019 off with his accumulated vacation time, and had the good fortune to benefit from an ‘early’ retirement incentive plan that allowed us to leave on time but Wayne was technically still employed until October 2019!

Anchor’s aweigh!